HDR 360 Bracket Ricoh Theta ne fonctionne pas? problème ou bug?

HDR 360 Bracket Ricoh Theta ne fonctionne plus


J'ai rencontré un problème ou bug avec HDR 360 Bracket Ricoh Theta

Avez-vous des problèmes aussi? Sélectionnez les erreur que vous rencontrez ci-dessous et aidez à fournir des commentaires à l'application.




Vous avez un problème avec HDR 360 Bracket Ricoh Theta? Signaler un problème




Problèmes courants de l'application HDR 360 Bracket Ricoh Theta et comment les résoudre. Guide de dépannage

       


  Contacter directement pour l'assistance

Nous comprenons que certains problèmes sont tout simplement trop difficiles à résoudre grâce à des didacticiels en ligne et à l'auto-assistance. C'est pourquoi nous avons facilité la prise de contact avec l'équipe d'assistance de Brad Herman, les développeurs de HDR 360 Bracket Ricoh Theta.




About this app

This means you can move the slider in LQ mode, hit Capture Long Exposure and see a result quickly, repeat till your happy with the results then press Med or HQ and shoot your final image.  Yes you can use the images to generate a tone map "HDR" style image, and they look great, however the target for this app is Light probes on a set.  It’s for shooting great theta images in low light.  This mode takes the same exposures each time, the schedule is defined by the Image count you select.  This shoots 1 image as an auto exposure then reads the exif data to calculate what the other exposures should be.  Images are great for Unity 5, Unreal, Nuke, Modo, Vray, Maya, IBL, PBS, PBR, Light Probe, Reflection, and more.  Because this mode is for use in night photography and it’s not nice to knock out your night vision.  This mode is great because it let’s you define your EV range and Shot count dynamically.  I also want to know what exposure setting to use without having to shoot 40 and 60 second images.  Do you need 360 degree HDR Images for Visual Effects, Video Game Development, or Virtual Reality?  This is limited by the fact that the theta S has a minimum shutter floor for the auto exposure.  The point of this mode is that it shoots as fast as the camera can to slow enough for most scenes.  This mode is very different as it’s not HDR focused.  Ideally I want to shoot at iso 100 for the best quality and longest light streaks.  I have been taking late night long exposures for years and this is built around my workflow.  Daylight is recommended as it’s closest to the native sensor data.